Hooligan is a strong-smelling, stinky cheese from Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm in Connecticut. This brine washed, surface ripened cheese is produced from the raw milk of Jersey and Brown Swiss cows. For making the recipe of this cheese, Mark Gilman worked with French and Belgian cheese makers. It is aged for two months to produce a soft creamy interior and a gorgeous orange rind. When young, the texture tends to have a slightly chalky centre with a softer paste just under the rind, becoming runnier as the cheese ages. Similarly, the pleasant grassy, savoury and vegetal flavours tend to become more assertive with maturity and at their optimum are certainly only for acquired tastes. Sweet wines and beers pair delicious with this cheese.